Its hard to get all snobby about wine tasting when you've got oyster juice dripping down your chin. Then again, not a huge problem when the guy next to you is wearing a bib.

Nestled deep in the heart of the Dry Creek Valley, Quivira oozes a kind of Sunday morning, bookish charm that makes eating with your fingers, well, civilized. Hosting their annual Hog Island Oyster tasting on a recent rainy weekend--shells and lemon flying across the communal picnic tables-you enlist the oyster-eaters next to you for help with your crossword puzzle. And they eagerly comply.

Owner Henry Wendt, a former history professor and founder of the uber-pharmaceutical giant Smith-Kline Beecham, is the grandfatherly patriarch who fosters that kind of smart, communal atmosphere. In addition to his winemaking, he also happens to be a fanatical map collector (the Sonoma County Museum currently hosts a private collection of historical West Coast maps from Coronado's time through Lewis and Clark) and fervent salmon conservationist who's restocked his own creek. Safe to say, he's a man on a quest. Or two.

Which is pretty appropriate considering the winery is named for a mythical golden city the Spanish spent years searching out-and never finding-in the New World. Turns out maybe they just didn't know what to look for.

The tasting room features plenty of handcrafted zins-their hallmark, though the winery is at the forefront of the fast-moving Rhone bandwagon with several Syrahs and a soon-to-be released vintage (2002 Steelhead Red) with Grenache, Mourvedre Syrah and Zinfandel. Warm and woody (check out the redwood ceiling and huge windows), the winery's public space is consciously enviro-modern with enough hominess (the winery is run by a total staff of twelve) to pull off family-operated without seeming hokey. Though a bit rehearsed in their dialogue at times, the tasting room staff is approachable, casual and informative without being overly effusive. Kind of like that old history professor of yours.

Tasting Room: 11 a.m. to 5p.m daily.

Best Sip and Spit Bets: 2002 Sauvignon Blanc, Fig Tree Vineyard; 1998 Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley

Nearby: Stop off for a quick sandwich from the Dry Creek General Store (3495 Dry Creek Rd., Healdsburg, 433.4171). Sunday is Prosciutto di Parma day-a hearty roll, stuffed with salty ham, fresh mozzarella, olive oil and tomatoes. ($7.50)

Five-second wine snob: The Dry Creek appellation is known for its old vine zinfandel grapes, many brought over by European immigrants to create familiar table wines. Unlike other grape varietals, you'll see plenty of freestanding vines with a waterfall effect, rather than carefully manicured and trained vines you'll see elsewhere.